Collapse Weave, January 23-24, 2010

with Giovanna Imperia

January 23-24, 2010
Old Oaks Ranch in Wimberley

Skill level: intermediate (must know how to dress a loom, and basic structures; experience with fine yarns nice but not required)

In this workshop students will have an opportunity to experiment with a variety of elastic materials which cause a woven structure to collapse. In the process, students will gain an understanding of properties and capabilities of a variety of elastic materials such as overtwisted yarns (silk, rayon, wool) with Z and S twist, jump yarns — that is yarns plied with elastic materials such as Elite/Elastane. This will include viscose, silk, wool, polyester, metallic. In addition, students will have an opportunity to weave with pure Elastane as well as other collapsible materials such as stainless steel wool, silk, linen; copper yarn, and selected metallics.

To further understand elastic materials, students warps will consist of elastic and inelastic stripes (total warp width not to exceed 7; total warp length approx. 3 yards). Students will be required to portion of inelastic warp BEFORE coming to the workshop. Therefore, warps of appropriate materials will be provided ahead of time. This will include detailed instructions on how space the warp to ensure that room is left for the elastic stripes.

During the first day of the workshop, students will warp jump yarns and complete the warp. Instructions will be provided on how to handle the material and how to set up the warp on the loom.

At the end of the second day we will be able to evaluate the various samples. Please note that some materials will react only after washing. So, if possible, time should be set aside for wetting the samples.

Required equipment: 4 or 8 shafts loom, rigid heddle looms OK as long as it is possible to obtain an approx. 40 epi. Heddles must be: texsolv or flat steel. No twisted wire please. Reed: 15 preferred, but 12 OK. Second beam nice but not critical. Sectional beams not necessary.